Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
